Monday, December 5, 2011

Small Things

Today was... inspiringly awful. It started when I was out tending my dry season garden, which as of now consists of a couple of upright rice bags with some tomato seedlings poking out the sides. I've been trying to coax some cilantro and garlic chives to push up, but no luck yet. I was in the process of redistributing the overcrowded seedlings to the base of the bags to use up any residual water. I stuck my hand down between the earth and one of the bags when I was met with the worst sort of pain. Like a jolt of white-hot electricity, the sting shot up my arm. I let out a predictable “Ouch!” and searched around for the culprit. For a moment I imagined a scorpion and the inconvenience that would bring. How ii would have to saddle up my trusty bike and hope that the eleven mile ride to the hospital wouldn't kill me. And once I got there I would have to explain, through lips that would no doubt be swollen and green by then, that a scorpion had stung me and that it wasn't one of those eight-inch ones that only sting and hurt real bad -but one of those little brown bastards who schedules you a date with St. Peter. And there would be the eye-rolling and guffaws at this silly obroni who characteristically makes a big deal out of the slightest, little, fatal arthropod attack. After at least ten to fifteen minutes someone might find the time, amidst all the frantic morning sweeping, to attend to the perspiring white guy dying under the mango tree. And once they admitted that I had a serious sting there would be the requisite eye-rolling and guffaws over the well known clumsiness of obronis, who frequently put themselves in such situations. Then there would be the phone call to Peace Corps -only then my complaint would be different. “It's only a scorpion,” I would say to them in my most macho voice “honestly I don't even care about that finger -I really don't want to trouble you... any mail?” And what if it was real bad and I had to get sent home. That would be embarrassing, showing up with nothing but a bug bite, just months shy of saving Africa from famine, desertification and the AIDS virus... if only I had a little more time. I would have to rewrite the set of pick up lines I've been preparing. “Yeah I was in the P. Corps,” I would say, stretching my shoulders and abbreviating unnecessarily “I gave all that up though, on account of a bad brush with the African wildlife.”

All of this made me very anxious, so I pushed up my glasses and made an earnest search. It didn't take long to find the nest of ants. This particular variety I have become all to familiar with. They have wide set mandibles that they carry perpendicular to their axis, vaguely reminiscent of hammerhead sharks, ever the ready to snap. Thus delivering the tiniest dose of venom that must be akin to the bite of the infamous bullet ants of Latin America. I remembered an incident in my first month at Kechiebi when I found myself at one of many impromptu fufu inhaling sessions. My host's children were looking awkward while hurling stones into the tree overhead (fufu goes best with adrenaline). Pitying them I thought I would help by climbing the tree and collecting the fruit they were after. Stupid. They let me hoist myself up there -maybe because they didn't have the English words for “look what you're about to do! Dipshit.” But I climbed to a height of some fifteen feet before I realized I was covered by a platoon of the very same ants. They say, for evolutionary reasons, it is difficult to remember painful events. No it is not. I have to give those bugs credit though, they made an art of seeking out the most inaccessible bits of flesh. Some even stowed away for a while, waiting until my guard was down.

Back to this morning, by thirty minutes time my finger had swollen to a respectable size and I knew my day was ruined. I will forever remember this as the day that I was bit by that insidious ant! Not the day when seven months of work at the fish farm literally swam out a hole in the cage. But the day I walked around with a slightly annoying, itchy sensation in my hand. Not the day when, caked in algae and fish waste from head to toe, I saw a year of planning and toiling brought to naught. But the day I had to momentarily relive a painful experience. Not the day when my fellow fish farmers and I painstakingly rescued the the reminants of our tilapia population and somewhat triumphantly restored hope in the form of a smaller breeding cage. But the day I heroically sojourned on after an unpleasant encounter with a six-legged beast.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Camouflaged

Kente Fest!

Matilda's release

The Lake Volta

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Public Pick

Privacy is different here. Many people aren't comfortable eating in public. However, it's perfectly acceptable to urinate while facing on-coming traffic and chatting with the local authorities at a police checkpoint. And bath time is the perfect opportunity to soap up and wave hello to the neighbors. Many Peace Corps volunteers, myself included, get a strange satisfaction from trying unusual, embarrassing and sometimes disgusting things in the name of cultural integration. While I haven't yet urinated in front of a police officer or taken a bath in full view of a church congregation I have tested my own comfort limits from time to time. And sometimes these acts of machismo (or stupidity) do turn out to be gratifying experiences. This is one tame instance that I felt ok posting where my grandmother could read it.

Not too many day's ago I was trying to find some shade while I waited for the taxi home from Nkwanta to fill up. The Harmattan, a month long bout of dusty skies brought over from the Sahara, was still in full force and I felt a felt an unwelcome sensation in my left nostril. Once I became aware of it I wasn't able to take the dried clump of mucus and dust lodged in my skull off my mind. I suffered for a good five minutes before a vivacious young vendor walked by. She had a big glass box on her head, filled with something meaty and she kept calling out “YeeeEEEEeeeess gizzzaaard!” She noticed me staring and walked in my direction, probably assuming I wanted a gizzard kabob. Then, while looking me in the eye, she unabashedly shoved her index finger up one of her nostrils, hooked it and pulled out the offending crust. I was inspired.

In America it is taboo to pick your nose at all, especially in public. This is a regrettable and unreasonable expectation put on us by our society. There are some boogers that simply can't be rubbed or blown away. While I would never advocate habitual picking (I learned my lesson during the memorable Dodgeball Incident of '96) I do think it's time we acknowledged and embraced the occasional need to pick.

I then remembered that I had seen this many times before while in Ghana. I had always admired Ghanaians for their ability to do it in public but I hadn't yet had a chance to test my own bravado. Well here it was. I'll admit I hesitated. I had to look around and make sure there weren't any other Obronis walking by. But I was eventually able to take the plunge. I'm proud to say I removed it with all the expertise of a six-year old, right there in front of hundreds of people in the Market day crowd. This was liberating in more more ways than one. The vendor stopped in front of me, her eyes still fixed on mine. She smiled. We had a moment.